The Ultimate Black Forest Travel Guide: What to Know Before You Visit
Situated in the southwest corner of Germany, the Black Forest, or Schwarzwald in German, is renowned worldwide for its dark conifer forests, picturesque villages, hiking trails, and thermal spas. Steeped in mystery and myth, the Black Forest is a favored destination in Baden-Württemberg for many Germans when vacationing within their own country. Having visited Schwarzwald several times, I can vouch for its allure. There is a myriad of activities to enjoy in the Black Forest! I’ve compiled a Black Forest travel guide that includes everything you need to plan a trip to Schwarzwald, from crafting your own Black Forest itinerary to detailed descriptions of the region’s attractions and cultural sites.
The state of Baden-Württemberg is an ideal travel destination that caters to all interests. Many tourists and locals alike flock to the Black Forest to explore Schloss Hohenbaden, trek to the Triberg Waterfalls, and admire the half-timbered houses in Schiltach. Moreover, Schwarzwald offers an opportunity to breathe in fresh air, making it an excellent destination for outdoor adventures. For an authentic Black Forest experience and a chance to immerse yourself in local life, consider venturing off the beaten track.
The best part of visiting Schwarzwald is that you can’t go wrong with any itinerary because the Black Forest is an expansive area rich in tradition. Visiting the Black Forest is an essential component of any Southern Germany road trip and is undoubtedly one of the best things to do in Baden-Württemberg. In this travel guide, you’ll also find my recommendations and tips for planning your Black Forest itinerary, serving as a starting point for organizing your trip to Schwarzwald. Let’s dive right in!
The Ultimate Black Forest Travel Guide: What to Know Before You Visit
Where is the Black Forest in Germany?
The Black Forest region in Baden-Württemberg is known for the cuckoo clock, the Grimm Brothers’ fairy tales, and the highest non-Alpine Mountains in Germany. Extending for approximately 100 miles along the French border from Switzerland to Baden-Baden, the Black Forest is the hub of the country’s timber and woodworking industry. The Black Forest National Park features 11 moderate trails ranging from 3.9 to 20.8 miles, with around 250 different communities within theregional area.
Why is it Called the Black Forest?
Locally known as the Schwarzwald, the region evokes images of wizards, gnomes, and witches, resembling an enchanted forest from a fairy tale. The Black Forest is steeped in myths and legends, with tales suggesting that the dense canopy of evergreen trees was so thick that sunlight had difficulty reaching the forest floor. This led locals to refer to the forest as black.
A Brief History of the Black Forest Region
When the Romans arrived in the region nearly two millennia ago, the forest was a mix of deciduous trees and pines. As people required more resources, the dense darkness of the forest began to thin. The increased demand for timber transformed the forest into an economic asset, with wood being sold or utilized in mining, charcoal production, and glass-making industries in other regions.
For instance, timber from the Black Forest was utilized to construct foundations for homes on the soft, sandy ground in the Netherlands. In the mid-18th and early 19th centuries, many farmers used the wood to craft intricate cuckoo clocks to supplement their income during the winter months. Today, local cuckoo clockmakers continue to uphold this rich cultural and historical heritage
Today, the Black Forest stands as one of the best-managed forests in Germany. Visitors may not immediately recognize this as they gaze upon the rolling green hills and dense woodlands. However, as they delve deeper into the national park, they can observe areas designated for forestry activities alongside sections where new planting is underway. In certain regions, rows of young plant seedlings are still visible.
Another notable feature of the Black Forest is its thermal spas. The Romans were the first to introduce bathing culture, with Europeans rediscovering the healing springs in the early 19th century. The natural hot springs in the northwestern corner of the Black Forest, including the spa town of Baden-Baden, attract spa enthusiasts from around the globe.
How to Get to the Black Forest
Flying to the Black Forest Region
If you’re traveling from the United States or Canada, Frankfurt serves as the main airport for this region. Trains operate between Freiburg (Breisgau) Hbf and Frankfurt (Main), as well as connecting Karlsruhe, Baden-Baden, and Offenburg to major cities in Germany by rail.
Alternatively, if you’re already in Europe and traveling from within the European Union, consider flying to Basel-Mulhouse Airport. Situated on the borders of France, Switzerland, and Germany, this airport is much closer to Freiburg im Breisgau. A frequent bus service connects Basel Airport and Freiburg.
When visiting the Black Forest using public transportation, some planning is necessary. If you arrive in major cities, consider using regional trains to reach the smaller towns on your Black Forest itinerary. For those interested in a scenic train journey through the Black Forest, obtaining a Konus card could be a smart choice. This guest card is valid during your stay for all local buses and trains, as well as trams and buses in Freiburg and Karlsruhe.
Driving in the Black Forest
Certainly, the most convenient way to explore the Black Forest is by car. With numerous rental companies operating in Germany, you can readily collect your vehicle at the airport upon arrival. If you’re journeying from Frankfurt, consider taking Autobahn A5, which traverses Offenburg along the western periphery of the Black Forest.
Alternatively, you can opt for Autobahn A81, which passes through the valley on the eastern side of the region. Both routes serve as excellent starting points for driving to any town within the region and are ideal choices if you’re considering a self-drive tour of the Black Forest.
When is the Best Time to Visit Black Forest
Schwarzwald is a breathtaking year-round destination that captivates the soul with its stunning landscape and natural beauty. Depending on your interests, the region provides fantastic opportunities for cross-country skiing, hiking, and biking.
For hiking enthusiasts, summer is the perfect time to visit. Spring arrives later at higher elevations, with hilltops in the Black Forest typically covered in snow in early March. To witness nature in full bloom, consider visiting in late April or early May.
Fall is an excellent time for mountain biking and Nordic walking in Schwarzwald. While you can witness vibrant fall foliage in the Black Forest, there are also many fir and spruce trees that do not change color. Autumn in the region is marked by a plethora of cultural festivals and traditional festivities.
During winter, Schwarzwald receives abundant snowfall. If you’re seeking winter activities in the Black Forest, the national park offers opportunities for cross-country and downhill skiing. You can also witness major sporting events like ski jumping, attend a dog sled race, or enjoy snowshoeing and snowboarding. Additionally, don’t miss the enchanting Christmas markets in picturesque towns during the holiday season
Where To Stay In The Black Forest, Germany
Baden-Baden: Schwarzwaldhotel Sonne
Karlsruhe: Hotel Zum Ochsen Durlach
Europa-Park: Hotel Bell Rock
Freiburg: Hotel Schwarzwälder Hof
Bad Teinach-Zavelstein: Hotel Berlins KroneLamm
Triberg: Hotel Central Garni
Feldberg: Hotel Schlehdorn
Gengenbach: Die Reichsstadt
Heidelberg: Hotel Zum Ritter St. Georg
Gernsbach: Schloss Eberstein
Endingen: Zollhaus
Lahr: Hotel Restaurant Adler
Vogtsburg: Schwarzer Adler Estate Hotel
How to Explore the Black Forest
After my last three trips to the Black Forest, I figured out that the best way to explore is to set up a home base and explore from there. On my recent trip, I stayed in Kirchzarten, which is only a 10-minute drive from Freiburg. The town a number of reasonably-priced hotels as well as vacation rentals. However, if you’re interested in a more rustic experience, the concept of farm stays is quite popular here.
If you don’t have a plan or a travel itinerary, basing yourself in one location will allow you to thoroughly explore the surrounding areas. Such a strategy can go a long way because there are a lot of things to do in the Black Forest. So if you’re short on time, you will still end up somewhere that matters.
I crisscrossed Schwarzwald on my recent trips and there are still places I haven’t seen. To create a perfect Black Forest itinerary you’ll need first to narrow down the list of places you want to visit.
If you have more than a weekend, set aside some time for particular points of interest you’ll encounter along the way. But if you have set a specific time to leave the area try to plan more specifically for your days.
Keep in mind that wherever you go, you will likely come across a lot of charming places that deserve a stop.
Go Hiking
When visiting the Black Forest, hiking its numerous trails is a must-do activity. Major cities like Baden-Baden, Freiburg, and Offenburg have local tourist offices where you can obtain maps and details about shorter routes.
For longer hikes, popular trails such as Westweg (in the western Black Forest), Ostweg (in the eastern Black Forest), or the Mittelweg (in the central Black Forest) are readily available on most websites, making it simple to plan your Black Forest adventure.
To create your itinerary, start by selecting the area you want to explore and then choose your preferred route. Online planning tools can display all trails in the chosen region, some even highlighting specific attractions, accommodations, and trails leading to those points of interest.
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In the Black Forest, most routes are straightforward to follow, marked consistently with various color-coded markers. However, it’s common for a single route to be indicated by multiple colored markers.
Remember, there are yellow local trails (gelbe Raute), blue regional trails (blaue Raute), and red main trails (rote Raute). Notable trails include those running north-south and east-west, such as the Freiburg-Bodensee (Westweg) and Kaiserstuhl–Rhine Black Forest Trail.
Multi-day hiking trails are deeply ingrained in local culture, with plenty of inns and stops along the way. It’s entirely feasible to explore the Black Forest through hiking without the need for camping in a tent.
Moreover, the Black Forest offers a variety of theme trails for you to explore, each focusing on a specific aspect of the region. These trails range from pilgrimages to farm life experiences and cultural highlights to famous attractions. You can even embark on the schnapps trail, leading you through the forest past schnapps and wine fountains, offering a unique and flavorful experience.
Here are the Most Beautiful Tourist Routes in the Black Forest:
The Schwarzwaldhocstrasse, or the Black Forest High Road, is the oldest tourist route in the Black Forest. It covers high areas in the northern Black Forest, focusing on scenery and panoramic views.
The Schwarzwald Panoramastraße, or Black Forest Scenic Road, offers a very similar experience in the southern parts of the forest. The mountains are higher in the south, so the views may be more spectacular.
The Badische Weinstrasse, or Baden Wine Route, travels through the winemaking region on the west side of the forest. The route includes numerous wineries and renowned restaurants.
The Schwarzwald-Bäderstraße, or Black Forest Spa Route, travels through some of the top spa towns in a region that is known for its phenomenal spa experiences.
The Klosterroute Nordschwarzwald, or Northern Black Forest Monastery Road, visits four spectacular historic monasteries, including the UNESCO World Heritage Maulbronn Monastery.
Other routes exclusive to the Black Forest include the Schwarzwald-Tälerstraße, and the Baden Spargelstraße, or Asparagus Route.
Tour routes running through the Black Forest, but not exclusive to it are:
- The German Framework Route, red line, featuring stunning half-timbered architecture across the region;
- The Hohenzollern Road, which follows the path of the Prussian royalty throughout Baden-Württemberg;
- Römerstraße Neckar-Alb-Aare, or Roman Road Neckar-Alb-Aare, traces Roman ruins throughout the area, with excavations and open air museums.
Things to Do in the Black Forest
Visit a Castle
While Schwarzwald is not particularly known for its castles or palaces, the region boasts some outstanding examples, ranging from functioning sites open for tours to mere ruins. Schloß Eberstein near Gernsbach, Karlsruhe Palace, Castle Hohengeroldseck just to name a few.
If you’re looking for the best castles in the Black Forest consider visiting Burg Hohenzollern. Situated in the eastern part of the national park, the Gothic Revival Burg Hohenzollern feels like something out of a fantasy novel. Once the seat of the Prussian kings and Kaisers, the castle offers daily tours in German (or another language) for an added fee.
My American readers may be interested to find within the castle museum a letter penned by George Washington to a Hohenzollern descendant thanking him for his service in the American Revolutionary War.
Go To a Spa
Friedrichsbad and Caracalla in Baden-Baden, mineral thermal bath in Bad Teinach, Paracelsus-Thermae in Bad Liebenzell, and Palais Thermal in Bad Wildbad are among the best spas in the Black Forest region.
Since the Roman era, Schwarzwald has been known for its health retreats and spas. At first, Roman soldiers were sent to recuperate and “take the waters” here. Centuries later the Black Forest was frequented by royalty, the European nobility, and the world’s elite. It was the place to see and be seen both in the summer and in the winter and that feel has permeated the region as it is today.
With more than 400 ranking criteria to determine the overall quality of a spa, there are 17 different sites in the Black Forest to visit. With this in mind, pick a town with a name starting with the word “Bad” (bath) to get a quality spa experience.
Hike To Triberg Waterfall
Located in the town of Triberg, the Triberg Fall is one of the most scenic natural wonders in Schwarzwald. The trail begins right in town. It is well marked and you will need to pay a small entry fee to access the trail. You’ll climb from the foot to the top of the waterfalls on a winding path along the cascading falls, with lookout points to enjoy the view.
After a point, the trail branches off in three directions. The main trail loops back into the town. Don’t miss seeing Maria in der Tanne pilgrimage church along the route. The small baroque church is very unique to the Black Forest with an impressive altar and wonderful carved wood doors.
Enjoy The Rides At Europa Park
Europa Park sits in the town of Rust, some 50 minutes from Offenburg. This is Europe’s second most popular amusement park (after Disneyland Paris). Split into 15 country-themed areas, Europa Park features world-class rides in a setting that recreates highlights from around Europe. You can take a Poseidon Water roller coaster ride, have a lot of fun with Cassandra’s Curse – spinning-room dark ride, and check out Russia’s Mir space station. I particularly like Atlantica Super Splash that creates a refreshing spray and genuinely makes you feel like you left Germany!
Visit The Black Forest Open Air Museum
Schwarzwälder Freilichtmuseum Vogtsbauernhof sits between Hausach and Gutach and provides valuable insights into German life in the Black Forest. It’s one of my favorite museums in Germany and I’ve visited it four or five times now and enjoyed every visit. I usually visit with a companion, and it never fails to impress. If you’d like a taste of the history of the region, don’t miss out on visiting this place. Family visitors and adults-only groups will both enjoy this fascinating open-air museum that focuses on different aspects of farm life and different generations.
You can easily spend one full day there because the museum features an extensive collection of farmhouses ranging from 16th to the 18th centuries. In order to understand local life better, you can join guided tours both in German and English. From March to November there are activities and workshops like traditional baking and cooking, folklore, and craft demonstrations. This will be a fun-filled learning experience for kids. Check the timings before you go, so that you won’t miss anything.
Go To a Historic Mine
Did you know that there are amazing medieval mines beneath the Black Forest? In Schwarzwald extensive mining activities took place during the Middle Ages but today nearly all of the mines are closed to production. Several former mine sites have re-opened their doors to visitors after refurbishment.
So if you’re into the history of mining technology, you can choose any of the 12 mines in the Black Forest that offer tours ranging from 45 minutes to two and a half hours. Museums-Bergwerk Schauinsland, Mine ‘Frischglück’ in Neuenbürg, Mine ‘Finstergrund’ in Wieden, Mine ‘Teufelsgrund’ in Münstertal and some others offer scheduled tours.
Beautiful Places to Visit in the Black Forest
First things first, there are endless beautiful places to visit in the Black Forest. Every village and town here has unique aspects and something special to see. Wherever you go, you will always find something worthwhile along the way. However, when it comes to planning your own Black Forest travel itinerary, there are some extraordinary locations that you may want to visit in the first place.
Freiburg im Breisgau
This university town is one of the largest in the Black Forest that makes a great base to explore the rest of the region. Freiburg im Breisgau has beautiful historic buildings, picturesque narrow streets, interesting history, the famous Freiburg Munster, and lots of places to eat hearty German cuisine. The best part about Freiburg is that you don’t need longer than a day to see it all. Consider taking a free walking tour or a culinary tour to better understand this adorable town.
With a charming medieval old town and dynamic café culture, Freiburg harmoniously combines the old and the new. The Munsterplatz, or cathedral square, is where the lively open-air market takes place on working days, great for people-watching. The atmospheric Freiburg Munster with its frightening and grotesque gargoyles is worth a visit too. The cathedral is home to the 750-year-old Hosanna bell, as well as the 116-m-high tower that offers scenic panoramic views of the town.
Another great thing to check out in Freiburg, especially for kids, is the Bächle! These little cobbled water-filled gutters run through the city center. In the summer, waterways attract barefoot kids of all ages to play, splash and have a blast.
Calw
Set in the pine-forested Nagold valley, Calw has a reputation for being one of the forest’s prettiest towns. As the birthplace of German novelist, and Nobel Prize recipient Herman Hesse, there’s a museum dedicated to his works. Calw is another stop on the Timber Frame Road so you can expect to enjoy the peaceful and tranquil countryside.
Start exploring Calw with the picturesque market square. Surrounded by 18th-century half-timbered houses, Calw’s square offers a quintessential German experience – think cobbled streets, towering Gothic churches, and of course, delicious beer. The city owes its growth to tourism. Many flock here to see the ruins of Hirsau Monastery, stop by the Tannery Museum, the Monastery Hirsau Museum, and the Farmhouse Museum.
Bad Wildbad
Situated in the north of the forest, Bad Wildbad is a lovely riverfront town where you can take a river walk to try the Palais Thermal baths. The thing I love about Bad Wildbad is that the spa town is much cheaper than Baden-Baden. At the same time if offers amazing spa facilities, a wide range of treatments for health, entertaining cultural events, and cross-country trails on the Sommerberg and around. If you’re feeling adventurous, take a ride on the Sommerberg Funicular Railway, then take the Schwarzwald Treetop Walk.
Breisach am Rhein
The tiny town of Breisach sits on the German side of the Upper Rhine River in the immediate vicinity of Alsace. You can reach Breisach by rail from Freiburg in 30 minutes. Alternatively, there are trains to Breisach from Riegel am Kaiserstuhl, north of Freiburg. To the west, there is Colmar in France. Catch a bus at Breisach Bahnhof bus station to enjoy a 30-minute bus ride.
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Breisach, this charming town, was nearly obliterated during WWII but meticulously reconstructed in its original style. It stands as one of the most picturesque destinations in the Black Forest, deserving more frequent visits. A great way to begin your exploration of Breisach is by visiting St. Stephen’s Cathedral, a majestic structure that dominates the cityscape.
Next, make sure to visit the Blue House, a memorial site honoring the history of the Jews of the Upper Rhine. Discover the secrets of the Radbrunnen Tower (Radbrunnenturm), which served as a town hall and medieval court torture chamber. If your schedule allows, consider crossing the river into France to witness the magnificent UNESCO World Heritage Site, the star-shaped Neuf-Brisach Citadel of the Sun King
Baiersbronn
This picturesque mountain resort comprises nine charming hamlets renowned as a hub of haute cuisine in Germany. It has gained culinary acclaim for the remarkable number of Michelin stars awarded to three local restaurants.
Amid indulging in meals at Schwarzwaldstube (Hotel Traube Tonbach), Restaurant Bareiss, and Restaurant Schlossberg, you’ll find a plethora of attractions and activities to keep you engaged.
The striking ruins of All Saints’ Abbey (Kloster Allerheiligen) possess a haunting allure, set amidst a secluded backdrop with a tragic history. Established in 1192, the premises have endured destruction from fires in 1470, 1555, and ultimately by lightning in 1804. To the southwest of Baiersbronn, a scenic trail leads to the 40-meter tall Sankenbach Waterfalls (Sankenbach-Wasserfälle). Visitors can interact with a long wooden lever that enables them to adjust the waterfall’s flow volume
Gengenbach
Nestled just a 20-minute train ride away from Offenburg, the town of Gengenbach is a picturesque delight with its narrow cobblestone streets, charming stone fountains, and half-timbered houses. Each corner of this chocolate box town exudes postcard-worthy charm, adorned with brightly painted shutters, flower boxes, and bronze lanterns.
Gengenbach is a highlight along the German Framework Road, resembling a scene from a fairy tale. For an unforgettable Christmas experience, be sure to visit Gengenbach in December. Leading up to Christmas, the town hall transforms into a grand Advent calendar, with each of its 24 large windows unveiling intricate scenes day by day.
In fact, Baden-Württemberg was one of the first areas in Europe to host Christmas markets. Gengenbach is a unique place to enjoy a traditional Christkindlesmarkt that isn’t ruined by commercialization or overrun by crowds. Also, don’t miss out on visiting Narrenmuseum Niggelturm, Löwenberg Museum in the former Patrician’s house, and the Rafting and Transport Museum in the former Warden’s House.
There is a number of vineyards surround much of Gengenbach, while hikes in the area range from about 1-13 miles. Shorter walks are available along some of the vineyards close to town. The paths won’t be actually winding through forests, but you’ll have incredible views of the area, as well as the town itself.
The Bottom Line
I hope my Black Forest travel guide has sparked your interest in visiting Schwarzwald soon. If you’re still seeking additional options to include in your itinerary, there are countless places worth exploring in this region. From castles and trails to museums and picturesque towns, the Black Forest offers a plethora of choices that are sure to delight you.
For those planning their own exciting adventure through this dense and enigmatic land, the Schwarzwald Tourism page provides comprehensive information on every town and attraction in the area. Whether you enjoy detailed trip planning or prefer a more flexible approach, the Black Forest boasts rolling hills, lush evergreen forests, and charming guesthouses and farmhouses that are sure to exceed your expectations.
Schwarzwald is one of my favorite places in Germany, and I will definitely return. The question is, how many times.
Still have doubts about how to arrange a trip to the Black Forest, what to do, and where to stay? Don’t be shy, leave a question in the comments below. If you enjoy what I do, I would be grateful if you could click the affiliate links sprinkled throughout this page. This will help me with running MindTheTravel and writing great travel tips! Thank you for your support!
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Helen Reynolds
My husband and I lived in Germany many years ago and this took me back. Thank you.
Patrick
I would love to visit The Black Forest. Your article makes it look like a very interesting place to visit. Thanks for this.
Antony
Never knew it was known by Schwarzwald. Seems very exciting! Would love to visit it!