The Ultimate Black Forest Travel Guide: What to Know Before You Visit

Situated in Germany’s southwest corner, the Black Forest, or Schwarzwald in German, is known around the world for its dark conifer forests, enchanting villages, hiking trails, and thermal spas. Steeped in mystery and myth, the Black Forest is a place in Baden-Württemberg that so many Germans choose when they vacation in their own country. I have been to Schwarzwald a number of times, so I can attest to that. There are countless things to do in the Black forest! I’ve put together Black Forest travel guide featuring everything you need to plan a trip to Schwarzwald, from help creating your own Black Forest itinerary to detailed descriptions of the region’s sights and cultural attractions.

 

The state of Baden-Württemberg is a perfect travel destination that has something for everyone. A lot of tourists and locals alike flock to the Black Forest to visit Schloss Hohenbaden, hike to the Triberg Waterfalls, and marvel at half-timbered houses in Schiltach. In addition, Schwarzwald is a great place to breathe fresh air, which also provides great opportunities for outdoor exploration. If you want to experience the real Black Forest and live like a local, make sure to get off the beaten track.

 

The best part of visiting Schwarzwald is that you can’t go wrong with any itinerary because the Black Forest is an expansive area rich in tradition. Visiting the Black Forest is an essential part of any Southern Germany road trip, and definitely one of the best things to do in Baden-Württemberg. In this travel guide, you’ll also find my recommendations and tips for planning the Black Forest itinerary, as well as a starting point for planning your trip to Schwarzwald. Let’s dive right in!

The Ultimate Black Forest Travel Guide What to Know Before You Visit

 

The Ultimate Black Forest Travel Guide: What to Know Before You Visit

 

Where is the Black Forest in Germany?

The Black Forest region in Baden-Württemberg is home to the cuckoo clock, the Grimm Brothers’ fairy tales, and the highest non-Alpine Mountains in Germany. Stretching for about 100 miles along the French border from Switzerland to Baden-Baden, the Black Forest is the heart of the country’s timber and the woodworking industry. There are 11 moderate trails in Black Forest National Park ranging from 3.9 to 20.8 miles and about 250 different communities within the regional area.

Why is it Called the Black Forest?

Locally known as the Schwarzwald, the region still conjures up images of wizards, gnomes and witches, something akin to an enchanted forest in a fairy-tale. While the Black Forest is still an area abounding with myths, legends say that the slightly sinister canopy of evergreen trees here was thick and dense that sunlight struggled to reach the forest floor. Hence locals called the forest black.

 

A Brief History of the Black Forest Region

When the Romans arrived in the region nearly two millenniums ago, the forest was intermingled with both deciduous trees and pines. As people required more and more resources, the density that created the darkness would grow increasingly thinner. The increased use of timber turned the forest wood into an economic resource, sometimes sold, and sometimes used in mining, charcoal, and glass-making industries in other countries.

 

For example, timber from the Black Forest was used to build foundations for homes on the soft, sandy ground in the Netherlands. In the mid 18th and early 19th centuries, many farmers used the wood to make intricate cuckoo clocks to supplement their income during the winter months. To this day, local cuckoo clockmakers preserve the rich cultural and historical heritage.

 

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Today the Black Forest is one of the best-managed forests in Germany. Sometimes visitors don’t even realize this when they see the rolling green hills and thick woodlands. But as they venture deeper into the national park, they can see the sections where foresting is allowed, and sections where new planting is being done. In some areas, you can still see the plant seedlings in straight rows.

 

Another thing the Black Forest is known for is thermal spas. Romans were the first who introduced the bathing culture with Europeans who rediscovered the healing springs at the beginning of the 19th century. The natural hot springs in the northwestern corner of the Black Forest including the spa town of Baden-Baden, attract spa enthusiasts from all over the world.

 

How to get to the Black Forest

 

Flying to the Black Forest Region

If you’re coming from the United States or Canada, Frankfurt is the primary airport for this area. There are trains running between Freiburg (Breisgau) Hbf and Frankfurt (Main), as well as trains that connect Karlsruhe, Baden-Baden, and Offenburg to the major cities in Germany by rail.

 

Alternatively, if you’re already in Europe and coming from within the European Union, consider flying to Basel-Mulhouse airport. The airport sits on the borders of France, Switzerland, and Germany and is much closer to Freiburg im Breisgau. There is a frequent bus connection between Basel Airport and Freiburg.

 

Visiting the Black Forest by public transport requires a bit of planning. Thus if you’re flying into major cities, you may want to use regional trains to get to the smaller towns on your Black Forest itinerary. If you are opting to take a scenic train ride through the Black Forest, then investing in a Konus card may be a wise decision. This guest card is valid in the registered period of your stay on all local buses and trains. As well as on the trams and buses in Freiburg and Karlsruhe.

 

Driving in the Black Forest

Of course, the most convenient way to explore the Black Forest is by car. There are plenty of rental companies doing business in Germany, so you can easily pick up your own vehicle at the airport upon arrival. When traveling from Frankfurt, you may want to take Autobahn A5, which runs through Offenburg along the western edge of the Black Forest.

 

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Alternatively, you can take Autobahn A81, which runs through the valley on the eastern side of the region. Both routes can be the starting points for driving to any town in the region and great options if you’re planning a self-drive tour of the Black Forest.

 

When is the Best Time to Visit Black Forest

Schwarzwald is a year-round jaw-dropping destination that inspires the soul with its beautiful landscape and natural scenery. Depending on your interest, the region offers excellent potential for cross-country-skiing, hiking, and biking.

 

If trekking is your thing, then summer is the ideal time to visit. Spring comes later to higher elevations. In early March hilltops in the Black Forest are usually covered with snow. If you want to see nature in full swing, consider going in late April or early May.

 

At the other end, fall is a great time for mountain biking and nordic walking. While you can get a glimpse of vibrant fall foliage in the Black Forest, Schwarzwald also has many fir and spruce trees that do not change color. If you visit in autumn, there is an amazing number of cultural festivals and other traditional festivities in fall.

 

In winter Schwarzwald sees a lot of snow. If you’re looking for things to do in the Black Forest in winter, the national park offers cross-country and downhill skiing. You can attend a major sporting competition (ski jumping). Or you can see a dog sled race or go snowshoeing or snowboarding. Plus, nothing beats Christmas markets in enchanting chocolate-box towns.

 

Where To Stay In The Black Forest, Germany

Baden-Baden: Schwarzwaldhotel Sonne
Karlsruhe: Hotel Zum Ochsen Durlach
Europa-Park: Hotel Bell Rock
Freiburg: Hotel Schwarzwälder Hof
Bad Teinach-Zavelstein: Hotel Berlins KroneLamm
Triberg: Hotel Central Garni
Feldberg: Hotel Schlehdorn
Gengenbach: Die Reichsstadt
Heidelberg: Hotel Zum Ritter St. Georg
Gernsbach: Schloss Eberstein
Endingen: Zollhaus
Lahr: Hotel Restaurant Adler
Vogtsburg: Schwarzer Adler Estate Hotel

 

How to Explore the Black Forest

After my last three trips to the Black Forest, I figured out that the best way to explore is to set up a home base and explore from there. On my recent trip, I stayed in Kirchzarten, which is only a 10-minute drive from Freiburg. The town a number of reasonably-priced hotels as well as vacation rentals. However, if you’re interested in a more rustic experience, the concept of farm stays is quite popular here.

 

If you don’t have a plan or a travel itinerary, basing yourself in one location will allow you to thoroughly explore the surrounding areas. Such a strategy can go a long way because there are a lot of things to do in the Black Forest. So if you’re short on time, you will still end up somewhere that matters.

 

I crisscrossed Schwarzwald on my recent trips and there are still places I haven’t seen. To create a perfect Black Forest itinerary you’ll need first to narrow down the list of places you want to visit. If you have more than a weekend, set aside some time for particular points of interest you’ll encounter along the way. But if you have set a specific time to leave the area try to plan more specifically for your days. Keep in mind that wherever you go, you will likely come across a lot of charming places that deserve a stop.

 

Take A Hike

Obviously, you can’t visit the Black Forest without hiking its numerous trails. The larger cities including Baden-Baden, Freiburg, and Offenburg all have local tourist offices where you can get maps and additional information about shorter routes. Longer routes like Westweg (in the western Black Forest), Ostweg (in the eastern Black Forest), or the Mittelweg (in the central Black Forest) are usually listed on most websites so you can easily plan your Black Forest itinerary.

 

To plan the itinerary you need first select the area you wish to explore, then choose the route. If you’re using a website planner, it will show all of the trails in that area. Some can show a particular attraction or lodging, as well as trails that lead to that location.

 

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Most routes in the Black Forest are easy enough to follow and uniformly marked with different color-coded markers. However, it’s not uncommon for one route to follow several different colored route markers. Keep in mind, there are yellow local trails (gelbe Raute), blue: regional trails (blaue Raute), and red: main trails (rote Raute). The famous trails run north-south and east-west), e.g Freiburg-Bodensee (Westweg); Kaiserstuhl–Rhine Black Forest Trail.

 

Multi-day hiking trails are an important part of local culture. Inns and stops are plentiful along the way. It is entirely possible to explore the Black Forest by hiking, without sleeping in a tent.

 

In addition, there are several theme trails. You can choose one to learn about a particular aspect of the region. Some are pilgrimages, others focus on farm life, others highlight various cultural sights and famous attractions. There is even a schnapps trail, which will guide you through the forest, passing by schnapps and wine fountains.

 

Here are the Most Beautiful Tourist Routes in the Black Forest:

The Schwarzwaldhocstrasse, or the Black Forest High Road, is the oldest tourist route in the Black Forest. It covers high areas in the northern Black Forest, focusing on scenery and panoramic views.

The Schwarzwald Panoramastraße, or Black Forest Scenic Road, offers a very similar experience in the southern parts of the forest. The mountains are higher in the south, so the views may be more spectacular.

The Badische Weinstrasse, or Baden Wine Route, travels through the winemaking region on the west side of the forest. The route includes numerous wineries and renowned restaurants.

The Schwarzwald-Bäderstraße, or Black Forest Spa Route, travels through some of the top spa towns in a region that is known for its phenomenal spa experiences.

The Klosterroute Nordschwarzwald, or Northern Black Forest Monastery Road, visits four spectacular historic monasteries, including the UNESCO World Heritage Maulbronn Monastery.

Other routes exclusive to the Black Forest include the Schwarzwald-Tälerstraße, and the Baden Spargelstraße, or Asparagus Route.

 

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Tour routes running through the Black Forest, but not exclusive to it are:

The German Framework Route, red line, featuring stunning half-timbered architecture across the region.

The Hohenzollern Road, which follows the path of the Prussian royalty throughout Baden-Württemberg.

Römerstraße Neckar-Alb-Aare, or Roman Road Neckar-Alb-Aare, traces Roman ruins throughout the area, with excavations and open air museums.

 

Things to Do in the Black Forest

 

Visit a Castle

While Schwarzwald is not particularly known for its castles or palaces, the region boasts some outstanding examples, ranging from functioning sites open for tours to mere ruins. Schloß Eberstein near Gernsbach, Karlsruhe Palace, Castle Hohengeroldseck just to name a few.

 

If you’re looking for the best castles in the Black Forest consider visiting Burg Hohenzollern. Situated in the eastern part of the national park, the Gothic Revival Burg Hohenzollern feels like something out of a fantasy novel. Once the seat of the Prussian kings and Kaisers, the castle offers daily tours in German (or another language) for an added fee.

 

My American readers may be interested to find within the castle museum a letter penned by George Washington to a Hohenzollern descendant thanking him for his service in the American Revolutionary War.

 

Go To a Spa

Friedrichsbad and Caracalla in Baden-Baden, mineral thermal bath in Bad Teinach, Paracelsus-Thermae in Bad Liebenzell, and Palais Thermal in Bad Wildbad are among the best spas in the Black Forest region.

 

Since the Roman era, Schwarzwald has been known for its health retreats and spas. At first, Roman soldiers were sent to recuperate and “take the waters” here. Centuries later the Black Forest was frequented by royalty, the European nobility, and the world’s elite. It was the place to see and be seen both in the summer and in the winter and that feel has permeated the region as it is today.

 

With more than 400 ranking criteria to determine the overall quality of a spa, there are 17 different sites in the Black Forest to visit. With this in mind, pick a town with a name starting with the word “Bad” (bath) to get a quality spa experience.

 

Hike To Triberg Waterfall

Located in the town of Triberg, the Triberg Fall is one of the most scenic natural wonders in Schwarzwald. The trail begins right in town. It is well marked and you will need to pay a small entry fee to access the trail. You’ll climb from the foot to the top of the waterfalls on a winding path along the cascading falls, with lookout points to enjoy the view.

 

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After a point, the trail branches off in three directions. The main trail loops back into the town. Don’t miss seeing Maria in der Tanne pilgrimage church along the route. The small baroque church is very unique to the Black Forest with an impressive altar and wonderful carved wood doors.

 

Enjoy The Rides At Europa Park

Europa Park sits in the town of Rust, some 50 minutes from Offenburg. This is Europe’s second most popular amusement park (after Disneyland Paris). Split into 15 country-themed areas, Europa Park features world-class rides in a setting that recreates highlights from around Europe. You can take a Poseidon Water roller coaster ride, have a lot of fun with Cassandra’s Curse – spinning-room dark ride, and check out Russia’s Mir space station. I particularly like Atlantica Super Splash that creates a refreshing spray and genuinely makes you feel like you left Germany!

 

Visit The Black Forest Open Air Museum

Schwarzwälder Freilichtmuseum Vogtsbauernhof sits between Hausach and Gutach and provides valuable insights into German life in the Black Forest. It’s one of my favorite museums in Germany and I’ve visited it four or five times now and enjoyed every visit. I usually visit with a companion, and it never fails to impress. If you’d like a taste of the history of the region, don’t miss out on visiting this place. Family visitors and adults-only groups will both enjoy this fascinating open-air museum that focuses on different aspects of farm life and different generations.

 

You can easily spend one full day there because the museum features an extensive collection of farmhouses ranging from 16th to the 18th centuries. In order to understand local life better, you can join guided tours both in German and English. From March to November there are activities and workshops like traditional baking and cooking, folklore, and craft demonstrations. This will be a fun-filled learning experience for kids. Check the timings before you go, so that you won’t miss anything.

 

Go To a Historic Mine

Did you know that there are amazing medieval mines beneath the Black Forest? In Schwarzwald extensive mining activities took place during the Middle Ages but today nearly all of the mines are closed to production. Several former mine sites have re-opened their doors to visitors after refurbishment. So if you’re into the history of mining technology, you can choose any of the 12 mines in the Black Forest that offer tours ranging from 45 minutes to two and a half hours. Museums-Bergwerk Schauinsland, Mine ‘Frischglück’ in Neuenbürg, Mine ‘Finstergrund’ in Wieden, Mine ‘Teufelsgrund’ in Münstertal and some others offer scheduled tours.

 

Beautiful Places to Visit in the Black Forest

First things first, there are endless beautiful places to visit in the Black Forest. Every village and town here has unique aspects and something special to see. Wherever you go, you will always find something worthwhile along the way. However, when it comes to planning your own Black Forest travel itinerary, there are some extraordinary locations that you may want to visit in the first place.

 

Freiburg im Breisgau

This university town is one of the largest in the Black Forest that makes a great base to explore the rest of the region. Freiburg im Breisgau has beautiful historic buildings, picturesque narrow streets, interesting history, the famous Freiburg Munster, and lots of places to eat hearty German cuisine. The best part about Freiburg is that you don’t need longer than a day to see it all. Consider taking a free walking tour or a culinary tour to better understand this adorable town.

 

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With a charming medieval old town and dynamic café culture, Freiburg harmoniously combines the old and the new. The Munsterplatz, or cathedral square, is where the lively open-air market takes place on working days, great for people-watching. The atmospheric Freiburg Munster with its frightening and grotesque gargoyles is worth a visit too. The cathedral is home to the 750-year-old Hosanna bell, as well as the 116-m-high tower that offers scenic panoramic views of the town.

 

Another great thing to check out in Freiburg, especially for kids, is the Bächle! These little cobbled water-filled gutters run through the city center. In the summer, waterways attract barefoot kids of all ages to play, splash and have a blast.

 

Calw

Set in the pine-forested Nagold valley, Calw has a reputation for being one of the forest’s prettiest towns. As the birthplace of German novelist, and Nobel Prize recipient Herman Hesse, there’s a museum dedicated to his works. Calw is another stop on the Timber Frame Road so you can expect to enjoy the peaceful and tranquil countryside.

 

Start exploring Calw with the picturesque market square. Surrounded by 18th-century half-timbered houses, Calw’s square offers a quintessential German experience – think cobbled streets, towering Gothic churches, and of course, delicious beer. The city owes its growth to tourism. Many flock here to see the ruins of Hirsau Monastery, stop by the Tannery Museum, the Monastery Hirsau Museum, and the Farmhouse Museum.

 

Bad Wildbad

Situated in the north of the forest, Bad Wildbad is a lovely riverfront town where you can take a river walk to try the Palais Thermal baths. The thing I love about Bad Wildbad is that the spa town is much cheaper than Baden-Baden. At the same time if offers amazing spa facilities, a wide range of treatments for health, entertaining cultural events, and cross-country trails on the Sommerberg and around. If you’re feeling adventurous, take a ride on the Sommerberg Funicular Railway, then take the Schwarzwald Treetop Walk.

 

Breisach am Rhein

The tiny town of Breisach sits on the German side of the Upper Rhine River in the immediate vicinity of Alsace. You can reach Breisach by rail from Freiburg in 30 minutes. Alternatively, there are trains to Breisach from Riegel am Kaiserstuhl, north of Freiburg. To the west, there is Colmar in France. Catch a bus at Breisach Bahnhof bus station to enjoy a 30-minute bus ride.

 

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This charming town was almost totally destroyed in WWII and scrupulously rebuilt in the old style. Breisach is one of the most beautiful places to visit in the Black Forest, and one that deserves to be visited way more often. It is a good idea to start exploring Breisach with St. Stephen’s Cathedral, which towers over the city. Then pay the Blue House a visit – a memorial site dedicated to the history of the Jews of the Upper Rhine. Learn the mysteries of the Radbrunnen Tower (Radbrunnenturm), once a town hall and medieval court torture chamber. If you have time, cross the river into France to see the incredible UNESCO World Heritage Site, the star-shaped Neuf-Brisach Citadel of the Sun King.

 

Baiersbronn

This idyllic mountain resort consists of nine scenic hamlets that are famous as a center of haute cuisine in Germany. It gained fame in culinary circles for the astounding number of Michelin stars awarded to three local restaurants.

 

Between meals in Schwarzwaldstube (Hotel Traube Tonbach), Restaurant Bareiss, and Restaurant Schlossberg, there are a number of attractions and things to do to keep you entertained.

 

The impressive ruins of the All Saints’ Abbey (Kloster Allerheiligen), are made even more haunting by their secluded setting and unfortunate history. Since its founding in 1192, parts of the premises have been destroyed repeatedly by fires — in 1470, in 1555, and finally by lightning in 1804. Southwest of Baiersbronn a scenic path leads to the 40-meter tall Sankenbach Waterfalls (Sankenbach-Wasserfälle). Play around with a long wooden lever, which allows visitors to regulate the volume of the waterfall.

 

Gengenbach

Nestled just about 20 minutes away from Offenburg by train, the town of Gengenbach is filled with narrow cobblestone streets, stone fountains, and half-timbered houses. Every street in this chocolate box town seems postcard-worthy. Many buildings here are decorated with brightly painted shutters, flower boxes, and bronze lanterns.

 

Gengenbach is part of the German Framework Road and definitely looks like a scene out of a fairy tale. If you’re looking for a fantastic Christmas experience, make sure to head to Gengenbach in December. For twenty-four days before Christmas, the town hall becomes a giant Advent calendar, with each of its 24 large windows opening in turn to reveal an elaborate scene.

 

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In fact, Baden-Württemberg was one of the first areas in Europe to host Christmas markets. Gengenbach is a unique place to enjoy a traditional Christkindlesmarkt that isn’t ruined by commercialization or overrun by crowds. Also, don’t miss out on visiting Narrenmuseum Niggelturm, Löwenberg Museum in the former Patrician’s house, and the Rafting and Transport Museum in the former Warden’s House.

 

There is a number of vineyards surround much of Gengenbach, while hikes in the area range from about 1-13 miles. Shorter walks are available along some of the vineyards close to town. The paths won’t be actually winding through forests, but you’ll have incredible views of the area, as well as the town itself.

 

The Bottom Line

I hope my Black Forest travel guide has inspired you to visit Schwarzwald one day soon. If you’re still looking for options to add to your itinerary, there are just too many places to include in one post. With so many castles, trails, museums, and postcard-worthy towns, you really can’t go wrong in the Black Forest.

 

If you’re planning your own fun adventure through a dense and mysterious land, the Schwarzwald Tourism page gives accurate information on literally every town and attraction in the region. Whether you’re obsessed with trip planning or you just want a loose plan, the Black Forest has the rolling hills, thick evergreen forests, and fields dotted with cute guesthouses, farmhouses that won’t disappoint.

 

Schwarzwald is one of my favorite places in Germany, and I will definitely return. The question is, how many times.

 

Still have doubts about how to arrange a trip to the Black Forest, what to do, and where to stay? Don’t be shy, leave a question in the comments below. And don’t forget to book your hotels and tour through my links, doing that you help me with running MindTheTravel and writing great travel tips!

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3 Comments

  • My husband and I lived in Germany many years ago and this took me back. Thank you.

    31/05/2020 at 2:17 pm
  • I would love to visit The Black Forest. Your article makes it look like a very interesting place to visit. Thanks for this.

    02/06/2020 at 3:14 pm
  • Never knew it was known by Schwarzwald. Seems very exciting! Would love to visit it!

    04/06/2020 at 2:10 pm

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